Sunday, June 17, 2007

Day 52 - Friday, June 15th











Saying Farewell!!!









We woke up at 4am this morning and immediately heard the pouring rain. This was a problem as we had to walk to the bus stop while carrying all of our suitcases and computer cases. However, by the time we were ready to leave, the rain had cleared and the skies were blue.

We caught our bus to Gatwick Airport and then the plane to Atlanta. We were early getting into Atlanta, but it took a long time to get through customs. It was great to finally walk out into the airport and see Jenny waiting to drive us home.

What a joy to see our house, our cat, Jenny’s puppy, and our bed!!! It is funny the things that you miss when you are gone.


As we have talked about this trip, there are several things that we will miss in the months to come. They include the “Merton Mallards” (ducks that lived in the courtyard by our house), Church Bells at ALL hours of the day and night, the view from our bathroom and kitchen windows, a good public transport system, walking to dinner and church and everywhere else too

As with anyplace, there are a few things that we will NOT miss. These include not having trash cans in any public places (they removed them to keep bomb threats down), the loudness of Merton street (especially the street cleaner that cleaned just outside or bedroom window every morning at 5am), the lack of “sunny spells”, the shower head that only put out a few drops of water at a time, Paris Hilton on the news EVERYDAY, having 2 sets of stairs in our house, and only have 5 TV channels!!

We really cant believe that it has been 52 days since we began this trip. Michael has accomplished so much during this time, including giving 8 talks, meeting with MANY scientists, revising a manuscript and writing a lot on his new book Here is the final count for the trip...... We visited 12 churches, 21 museums, 13 castles and other attractions, 3 bridges, 4 pubs, 2 plays and 1 sporting event!!! We have SO many memories to enjoy for the rest of our lives.

Day 51 - Thursday, June 14th







A nice beer delivery guy!!

















Wouldn't you love to live in this house!!!

















The needlepoint kneeling pads











ONE of Ros' design walls. Look at the beautiful fabrics that she has dyed using indigo dyes!!











One of her sampler quilts, using her own hand-dyed fabrics.







Michael very nicely stayed in Oxford and finished the last of our errands while I took the bus to the town of Thame (pronounced Tame) and visited with Ros Crouch (one of the quilters that I had met previously).

As Michael was walking me to the bus stop, we saw a delivery van in front of one of the big pubs and a man unloading lots of barrels of beer. I stopped to take a photo, with the delivery guy bending over one of the barrels. He stood up and laughingly asked if we had gotten his best side, and then he posed for yet another photo.

Ros met me at the bus stop and gave me a tour around the village of Thame. From all that I have seen, it is a typical small English town, complete with a main street containing pubs, tea rooms, grocery stores and lots of small shops. We visited a local church and I took yet more photos. One thing that I enjoyed seeing were the kneeling pads that were on the backs of the chairs. I have seen many like these in other churches and read several notices thanking the local embroidery guild’s for providing them.

I was interested to see a drum set in one corner of the church. Ros commented that this was a “happy, clappy church”......I loved that description!!!

As we were leaving, we asked the ladies in the church a question and another gentleman started answering the question. He said “to briefly explain” and then proceeded to talk for 5+ minutes!!! Ros and I were both edging out the door as he kept following us. Ros said “at least you got to meet a local character”.

We walked to Ros’ house and had lunch with her husband Eric. After lunch another quilter named Gill joined us and we had a wonderful time talking and looking at Ros’ quilts.

I caught the 4pm bus back to Oxford. We had planned to cook our dinner that night, but instead opted for a final meal at our favorite Thai restaurant.

Thursday, June 14, 2007

Day 50 - Wednesday, June 13th









The book and it's author!!



















A final view of our funky house.















The gargoyle that we see from our living room window.....is he making a statement about us being Americans?


















Another gargoyle from our window














The view from our bathroom window. I will miss seeing this when I brush my teeth every morning!!!







This was the day to pack and clean, and do all of the little things that we had planned to do but hadn’t gotten around to yet!!!

Delta had changed the times of our flights several times, the last one moving our departure to an earlier time, so Michael called to see if we could get on a later flight out of London. The person that he talked to was out of London and agreed that it was too early of a flight for us, so he not only changed us (free of charge) to a later flight, but also put us on a Non-Stop flight!!! We are not dreading the flight nearly so much now.

We did go out and eat lunch at a small outdoor café and then walked to the “Oxford University Press” Bookshop to take a photo of Michael with his book. On the first day that we went into the shop, his book was one of the ones that was specially displayed!!

We also sat out in our private garden and enjoyed the last of the nice weather.

In the evening, we caught a bus to the town of Abingdon (about 20 minutes away) and met with Michael’s publisher and his wife. Ian and Inaca Sherman invited us into their home and then took us to a “pub” that served French food!! We had a wonderful meal with them and then Ian drove us home (almost). There are tons of areas in Oxford where private cars cant drive, so he dropped us off about half a mile from our house and we strolled home from there. It was a great walk, as it was the first time that we had seen Oxford that late at night. We noticed that all of the pubs were closed and that things were pretty quiet, even though it was only about 11:30.

From the local newspaper......Basket Cases..... A council has banned hanging baskets in the village of Burton Joyce, after branding them “dangerous”. Resident, Christina Lindley said: “It’s ridiculous. We never had a problem before”.

Wednesday, June 13, 2007

Day 49 - Tuesday, June 12th








Bath Abbey




















The main pool of the Bath
























The Avon River














The big pile of rocks!!







We began this morning by saying goodbye to Roy and Diane as they boarded their bus to the airport. Then, Michael and I caught a train to the city of Bath.

The city is most famous for the ancient Roman communal baths, dating to the later first century.. These were discovered inadvertently when there was a water leak under a house. There were areas that were used for communal bathing, saunas, and changing rooms. It was also used as a religious site. We could imagine the Romans sitting in these warm pools and discussing the days events or conducting some business.

The baths are fed by an underground hot spring, apparently the only one in Britain. It was most amazing to see the plumbing system (including a lead pipe) that were used to channel the water into the pools, and then send the excess water into the Avon River. Such technology at such an early time period in history!!!

The baths were originally covered with a domed roof, but now are open to the elements. The water is a murky green due to the algae that has grown under the sun. In Roman times, the water would have been crystal clear.

We also visited Bath Abbey which was a huge, beautiful church. However, after seeing SO many churches, we didn’t tarry long!!!

As we were preparing to leave Bath, we realized that it was only 1:00pm so we checked the train schedules and decided to head about an hour down the tracks to visit the town of Salisbury and the site of Stonehenge. The bus ride out to the site took about 20 minutes and drove through miles of farm land and paddocks. Our first view of the great rocks was disappointing, as we could also see hundreds of sightseers!!!! However, once we had purchased our tickets and walked across the road into the pasture surrounding it, we were not as aware of the numbers of people. Instead, we were awed by the beauty and magnificence of the structure itself.

Day 48 - Monday, June 11th









Anne Hathaway's house












The garden













Shakespeare's Birthplace
















Halls Croft










His Grave









Michael needed to work again today, so Roy and Diane and I grabbed a train to Stratford-Upon-Avon, about an hour and a half trip. After arriving, we walked through the town to the tourist information area and ended up buying a ticket on a Double Decker tour bus that would go past all of the attractions and allow you to hop on and off as you pleased. The tour guides were all full of information, although some of them contradicted each other, so we are not sure exactly how much is true and how much is conjecture.

My first impression of the town was that many of the houses looked the same.....white plaster with dark wood beams. In many ways, they looked exactly like the house that we are living in!!!!! Every so often you would see a house with a thatched roof. One of these houses had a very ornate design in the thatching that covered the peak of the house. The tour guide told us that this type of thing was the signature of the person doing the work.

Our first stop was at Ann Hathaway’s cottage. This was the childhood home of the woman that Shakespeare was to marry. Apparently it was quite a scandal because she was 26 years old and he was only 18!!!! Our first sight of the cottage were the beautiful gardens, containing flowers, shrubs, herbs and vegetables. The gardener was working the vegetable area and putting up devices to keep the birds out of the plants. The device was a potato with large feathers stuck in it and suspended on a rope. As the wind blew, the feathers would turn like a windmill. Roy jokingly asked the gardener if it would keep deer out and his reply was “that’s a gun”!!!! Some of the prettiest of the vegetables were the artichokes, both green and purple ones. I had never seen them growing before and they were gorgeous.

The roof of the house was made of Thatch and was in the process of being re-thatched. It was interesting to see the new section with the straw colored thatch and the old section where the thatch had turned black over the years. The old side was also covered with bugs and had flies all over it. I sure wouldn’t have wanted to live under one of these!!!! We learned that the reason the people had canopy beds was to keep the bugs from falling into bed (ie....”don’t let the bed bugs bite”).

We also learned the meaning behind the first part of that saying “Goodnight, sleep tight”. The base of the beds were made from rope and as they aged the rope would sag and need to be tightened.

After leaving the cottage, we crossed the street to a local café and had lunch. I tried a Cornish Pasty and was very impressed with it. It is a pastry that contains a mixture of FINELY minced meat, onions and potatoes.

We hopped back on the tour bus and headed for Shakespeare’s Birthplace. You walked through a museum before you actually entered the house and we learned lots of interesting facts. For example, all of Shakespeare’s grandchildren died without producing any heirs, so he has no lasting descendants. Also, he grew to dislike his wife, and in his will he gave her “his second best bed”. The house itself was interesting, with guides in almost every room giving you additional information about the house and times. I especially enjoyed a room dedicated to glove making (Shakespeare’s father was a glove maker). It was amazing to look at the processes that were entailed in making a simple pair of leather gloves.

We got back on the bus and hopped off at the house where Shakespeare’s daughter and her husband (Dr. John Hall) lived. The house was named “Halls Croft”. It was much the same as the other houses, however it included some of Dr. Hall’s famous remedies and contained letters from various patients either describing their symptoms or thanking Dr. Hall for curing them.

Our final destination was the church where Shakespeare and his family were buried. The custom at the time was that people were buried in the ground and then the bones were later dug up and moved into a communal grave. Shakespeare didn’t want this to happen, so he paid the church to allow him to be buried inside the church itself. His grave is right at the front of the church, near the altar. He wrote the following on his toombstone.... “Good friend for Jesus sake forbear, to dig the dust enclosed here. Blessed be the man that spares these stones, and cursed be he that moves my bones.”

As the day went on, we realized the number of our sayings that came from this particular time period.....

The opening into the “bread oven” (fireplace) was covered with a piece of Hickory that had been soaked in cold water to keep it from burning......this piece was called a “Stop Gap”.

The bread was sliced horizontally rather than perpendicularly. The top piece was considered as the nicest, thus the term “upper crust”.

The word curfew comes from a French word meaning to “cover the fire”. The curfew bell rang each night around 8pm to remind people to cover the fire so that it would not blaze up during the night and catch the house on fire.

The women were given a time in the afternoon that they could go out and visit with their friends and neighbors. This was called the “gadding time” and we get the term “to gad about” from it.

The remedy for a sore throat was to hold a frog over the open mouth and let the saliva from the frog drop into the persons mouth....thus, a “frog in my throat”.

Finally, Queen Elizabeth the First lost her hair due to the use of Mercury based facial products. The women of society began to shave their head so that they would look like the Queen. The term “High Brow” came from this practice.

We caught our trains back to Oxford and arrived in time to meet Michael at the Black Horse pub for dinner. We all had traditional pub food.....Diane opted for Fish and Chips, Roy had the “Ploughman’s Lunch” which had a selection of cheeses, ham, fruit and bread. Michael had “Toad In The Hole” which is a large yorkshire pudding with sausages and mashed potatoes inside, with the whole thing covered with brown onion gravy. I had “Steak and Ale Pie” which was a great mixture of pieces of meat and vegetables served in a flaky crust. It was served with broccoli, carrots and, of course, chips.

Day 47 - Sunday, June 10th









Another aerial view of Oxford










The wood in these windows is amazing....wonder how old it is?




















The hills in the background













Blackwells' bookshop.....at least one level of it.










Our favorite beer.













Roy and Diane arrived from Paris late last night and we started our morning a bit slower than normal. We left the house about noon and headed to High Street. Our first stop was the beautiful University Church which has a stairway up to the top of the tower. The steps were very uneven and sometimes hard to climb, but the views of Oxford from the top were magnificent. It was interesting to note that the city of Oxford quickly turns into pasture land that was visible just beyond the towers. As we were climbing up the stairs there were a couple of open areas where you were even with some of the lower spires and carvings, and it was fun to be so close to them. The stairs also took us through the bell ringing tower and it was interesting to see all of the bell ropes tied up to various poles in the room.

As we were taking photos from the top, Michael noticed that there was a café just below us on the side of the church property. We went downstairs to investigate and ended up sitting outside in the sunshine and eating a wonderful meal. Michael and I split a plate of vegetable stir fry, served with a wonderful salad made of fresh greens.....they don’t make a salad simply with lettuce and tomato, but with every kind of green available.

After lunch we wandered further down the street and stopped in at Blackwell’s Bookshop. Michael and I had already been here once, but still enjoyed seeing the huge selection of books.

Next door we found a cute pub called “The White Horse” so we went in for a pint of beer. We all loved the beer called “Village Idiot” and debated long and hard about who should order it.

We split off from Roy and Diane and Michael and I headed back to our house to get ready for Chapel and another evening at High Table. We once again were treated like royalty and greatly enjoyed our evening. The food was wonderful...... we began with a salad and bread, followed with a Fish Casserole and main course was Almond Stuffed Chicken Breast with potatoes, zucchini and carrots. Desert was Chocolate Raspberry Tort. The usual chocolates, desert wines and coffee followed.

One interesting thing that I did learn was concerning the graduations that are taking place around Oxford right now. It seemed funny to me that graduations were happening before the term ended, so I asked about this. I was told that the students don’t find out their final exam results for about 1 month after taking the exam. After they find out that they have passed, they then apply for graduation and are assigned to a ceremony sometime in the future. Because there are so many students and so few ceremonies, the current graduates will not actually receive their degrees until 2008!!!!

Tuesday, June 12, 2007

Day 46 - Saturday, June 9th









I got to play this beautiful instrument











Christchurch College















Saturday morning fun in downtown Oxford
















Backlit bell-ringer








Today I continued on my “See Oxford” theme and visited the Bates Collection of Musical Instruments. It is a very intimate (ie small) museum but with hundreds of instruments displayed. There was one reproduction “Flemish Virginal” that I was actually allowed to play. It was such fun to listen to the twang of the sounds that came out of it. In the children’s area they had a Steel Drum and a Marimba that you could also play, so I acted like a child and had a wonderful time. They had two Theremin in one of the display cases. According to the information panel, a Theremin is an optical device that allows the player to generate a wide spectrum of sound pitches based on the distance that you are from the instrument. I first noticed that as I walked there was this funny deep sound in the gallery, but thought that the couple in the next room were doing it. Then I realized that the sound was changing in time to my movements and finally figured out what was going on. You could run your hands to and fro on the instruments and produce a very eerie music.

I was headed for another museum (about Oxford), but realized that it didn’t open for another 20 minutes, so instead I just walked through the town and enjoyed the Saturday morning festivities. There were street vendors everywhere and the buskers ranged from “American Indian” pan flute players to a drum corp, with several guitarists, violinists and saxophonist mixed in. I even ended up at a “Hands up for Darfur” festival that had all sorts of crafts, food and games. I enjoyed taking photos of the different pubs with their interesting names. I even found one called the “Slug and Lettuce”......not sure that we want to eat there!!!!

As I was walking back home, Michael called me and said the Bells at Merton Chapel (just across the street from our house) were being rung. It was such fun to listen to them as I walked home. When I got there, Michael suggested that we go across to the Chapel and listen from there. When we got in the Ante Chamber of the church we realized that the bell ringers were standing on a ledge just inside the cupola on top of the Chapel. We sat and watched and listened for some time.

At dinner we decided to try something different, so we walked to a Lebanese restaurant called AlHalim. Since we didn’t know anything about Lebanese food, Michael asked the waiter if he could make suggestions. He said that the chef could do a special for us with a lot of different foods so that we could try them all. We said ok and the feast began!!!!

The first thing that he brought out was a plate with vegetables..... whole vegetables.... on it. We had a bell pepper, cucumber, small head of lettuce, tomato, olives, pickled peppers, pickled Turnips (we had to ask what these were), and chunks of carrots

Then came the starters ......Hommos, Foul Moukala (fried Broad Beans, cooked in olive oil and lemon juice), Fatouch (mixture of fresh green salad, topped with toasted Lebanese bread, sumac and olive oil), Falafel (chick peas and broad beans, mixed with spices and deep fried), Sanbousek (pastry filled with feta cheese), Fatayer Sebankikh (pastry filled with spinach, onions, pine kernels and lemon juice), Maqaniq (Lebanese fried cocktail sausages) and Lebanese Bread.

We were so full after eating all of these, we couldn’t believe that we had the main courses yet to go. The main courses were Kafta (minced meat mixed with parsley, onions & grilled), Chicken and Lamb cubes garnished with onions and grilled tomatoes), and another course with Lima Beans and meat in a tomato sauce served over Lebanese Rice. It was all wonderful.

We noticed that the room next door was a “Bubbly Bar”....not champagne, but Water pipes, so we moved in there and gave it a try. Since we had NO idea what we were doing, our waiter said that he would set us up with one.....the first was a Melon flavor and then we also tried another one that was Apple flavor. They were very interesting, but didn’t have a huge amount of flavor to them. I had a cup of mint tea that was a wonderful ending to the meal.

We strolled back to the house, enjoying the architecture, people and flags.